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Topping many visitors' lists would be Andalusia's three great cities, located close enough to each other to be covered in one trip. Granada must be seen for its Alhambra palace. Add the Capilla Real (Royal Chapel) and the tomb of Isabella and Ferdinand to the other sights, and the city can be explored in a day or two. An hour away lies Cordoba with the Mesquita, a perfectly preserved mosque. Two hours further on waits Seville, a beautiful city that produced Expo '92 and contains the second best art museum in Spain, along with two resplendent examples of medieval Moorish-Christian architecture—the Alcázar (Fortress) and the Casa Pilatos.

Next in priority might be Madrid and the cities around it—Toledo, El Escorial, Segovia, and Salamanca. Toledo is a virtual museum city overflowing with El Grecos. It also possesses an awesome cathedral, an exquisite ancient synagogue, and a fine art museum.

Barcelona is a beautiful, cosmopolitan city offering much to do, pleasant walks while doing it, and fine food to enjoy afterwards. Beyond such simple pleasures, Barcelona bursts with so much architecture and art that it may be the one city in Spain to see if you can only see one. There is a fine cathedral standing in a preserved medieval quarter (the Barri Gòtic); the best medieval and Renaissance museum in Spain (the Museu d'Art de Catalunya); some of the finest examples of modern art in the Miró and Picasso museums; and the astounding Sagrada Família cathedral by Gaudá, to mention but a few of the sights.

The "royal" cities, successive early capitals of Spain established during the centuries of the Reconquest, would probably come next on the list. Traveling north from Madrid, the first of these cities (but the last capital chronologically) is Valladolid. Less attractive than many other Spanish cities, it nevertheless houses an excellent collection of polychromed sculpture at San Gregorio. The city also preserves the house in which Columbus died. An hour away and a little further north is the second capital of Spain, León. Tourists come to admire its Gothic cathedral. Oviedo, Spain's first capital, waits three hours further north. Among other sights, Oviedo has a lovely cathedral containing 9th-century relics and carvings. On the outskirts of town visit Santa María del Naranco, Spain's oldest existing civil building; it's what remains of an 8th-century Visigothic palace.

The state of Extremadura encompasses a variety of sights spread throughout pleasant scenery. Mérida preserves Roman buildings, Cáceres is a town of Renaissance houses, Trujillo offers moody castle ruins and homes of the conquistadores. Pamplona, the university town with its famous bullring, is the capital of Navarra. It is also the center for a collection of medieval monasteries that make pleasant excursions, especially to La Oliva and Leyre.

Spain is almost surrounded by beach, close to 3,850 kilometers (2,400 miles) of it, some on the Atlantic, but most on the Mediterranean. Some of the northern beaches—those on the Atlantic—look like Scandinavian fjords; others are dotted with elegant resorts. Start at Santiago and head east to the Costa de Rias. Or follow the coast north, then east, pausing at Santillana del Mar, Santander, and Donostia (also called San Sebastian) to explore the Costa Verde.

South of Barcelona, along the 100 miles to Valencia, lies the Costa del Azahar, the Coast of Orange Blossoms. The land flattens, beaches widen and stretch, and the scent of orange blossoms hangs in the spring air.

The most popular beaches in Spain, in fact in all of Europe, form the southern coast of Spain. East to west spread the Costa Blanca and Costa de la Luz. The Costa Blanca is named for the fine white beaches that stretch for miles. West of Gibraltar begins the Atlantic Ocean and the Costa de la Luz. Here the Atlantic sends true waves, the fresh seafood is delicious, the crowds are fewer, and the prices are lower than on the Costa del Sol.

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By Plane

Iberia Líneas Aéreas de España, S.A., usually shortened to Iberia, is the largest airline of Spain, based in Madrid and is the Spanish flag carrier. It operates an extensive international network of services. Its main bases are Madrid Barajas International Airport and Barcelona International Airport.

The Iberia Group encompasses the Iberia Regional/Air Nostrum franchise. In addition to transporting passengers and freight, Iberia carries out many related activities, such as aircraft maintenance, handling in airports, IT systems, and in-flight catering.

Iberia Group airlines fly to over 100 destinations in 39 countries. Via code-sharing arrangements with other companies, it offers flights to another 90 destinations. With a fleet of over 200 aircraft, it makes about 1,000 flights each day. In 2002, Iberia carried 28 million passengers and 210,000 tons of freight.

In 2006 the new Terminal 4 at Madrid Barajas was awarded to Iberia and the Oneworld alliance members. This provided much-needed expansion capabilities for Iberia. Iberia alone is responsible for around 60% of Madrid Barajas traffic. In 2005 Iberia and its regional branch Air Nostrum transported 21,619,041 passengers to/from Madrid Barajas alone.

By Car

The quality of a Spanish road and whether it is multi-laned are indicated by its letter designation. "A" followed by a number, as in A-1, means an autopista, a well-paved four-lane highway charging tolls (peajes) over most of its route. These roads will also have an "E" designation; the major arteries in Europe are being systematically numbered throughout the European Economic Community. Toll roads are privately owned in Spain and charge truly exorbitant rates, but they do not pass through low-speed-limit villages, so save both time and gas.

"N" means a national road (carratera nacional) and is followed by either a Roman or Arabic numeral. These are usually one lane in each direction and pass through towns and villages where speeds must be cut in half or more. "D" and "C" prefix lesser roads, acceptably paved but even slower going, generally with more curves.

Speed limits are 120 kilometers (75 miles) per hour on autopistas, 100 kilometers (62 miles) on national highways, 90 kilometers (55 miles) on other roads, unless otherwise marked, and 60 kilometers (38 miles) to 40 kilometers (25 miles) in towns.

Gas is a major expense in Europe, costing three times what it does in the Unites States. Gas prices are quoted by the liter, which is slightly more than a quart.

An international driving permit is required for foreigners driving in Spain. Branches of the American Automobile Club can supply one. Bring along two passport-sized photos, a valid driver's license, and a $5 fee. Incidentally, AAA has reciprocal arrangements with automobile clubs in Spain that provide similar services for AAA members from the United States. In Spain the emergency assistance number for RACE, the AAA affiliate, is 91-593-33-33.

Note that Spanish rentals will bill at 12 percent more than the price charged, because of the IVA tax. Although the legal driving age in Iberia is 18, some rental companies refuse to rent to anyone under 21, or even older. Check in advance. Estimate about $350 per week for a compact car with automatic transmission, or about half that price for a smaller, manual-drive car without air-conditioning.

Sometimes the least expensive rental will be through a Spanish company. Names can be provided by the National Tourist Office of Spain. Some have U.S. representatives.

By Train

Trains beat planes when the distance is 200 miles or less because train stations are located downtown, while airports are not. Trains go almost everywhere in Spain, though not always directly. RENFE (Red Nacional de los Ferrocarriles Español) radiates from its hub in Madrid to the corners of the country. Travel is convenient along any continuous radius, but requires retracing tracks to reach cities on different lines. RENFE ticket offices are centrally located in large cities.

The best trains for speed and service are international trains (EC, IC, TER, Electrotren, Pendular, and Talga). Intra-country expreso and rápido come next. The price depends on the caliber of train and in what class you'll travel. Better than standing in line at the train station is to drop in to any travel agency in Spain that displays a yellow and blue RENFE sign.

For train buffs, RENFE also offers special train tours. The most famous is the Al Andalus Express, a train of beautifully reconditioned cars from the 1920s and 1930s, which include shower rooms, a game room, and a piano bar. The route varies, as does the number of days spent traveling—between one and four—and service is offered only during May, June, and September. Tickets are expensive—from US$1,700 per person for the four days, to $140 for one day, meals included—but it is an unmatchable experience. Information on this and other unique train tours is available through Abercrombie & Kent, 1520 Kensington Rd., Oak Brook, IL 60521 (Tel. 800-323-7308).

By Bus

Bus is the cheapest form of travel, beating the cost of trains by about a third. Each city, village, and hamlet contains one bus station, Madrid and Barcelona three. The ticketing procedure is the same as at home: Pay as you board for a short trip or purchase a ticket in the station for a longer trip. Estimate about $5 per 100 kilometers (62 miles) of ride. Although there is no provision for reservations, arriving early accomplishes the same thing. The monthly Horario Guía lists times and routes, not only for all bus services, but also for trains and planes, and is available at any newsstand.

Taxis

Fares are inching up to match fuel and other dollar-based inflation, but are still a bargain compared to U.S. rates. Many cars now have fancy digital meters with four buttons: The driver presses 3 within the major city limits, and then as soon as the city limits are passed, he presses 2 to up the rate; 1 is for Sundays and holidays only; 4 in the past has been a dummy. This means that exactly the same distance could cost 25 percent more than it would based purely on distance.

Subways

In the capital, you can often avoid the hassle with hacks by opting for this fast, clean, and efficient public transport. It will set you back all of 115 pesetas per ride—a time-saver and a money-saver in an increasingly traffic-choked metropolis.

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Most of Spain can be brutally hot in summer and chilly on fall and winter nights. In summer, although air-conditioning is common, don't expect it in neighborhood restaurants or lower-priced accommodations. In Spanish cities, attire is less formal than in other European tourist destinations, but is still dressier than what the average American wears at home. Except in resorts, jackets and ties are common for men in Spain. Shorts and sleeveless tops are inappropriate attire for churches.
Comfortable shoes are important; the charming medieval lanes in Spain are often paved with cobblestones that can bruise the feet through thin-soled shoes. Although sneakers would otherwise be ideal, they are not the fashion in Spain.

Hotel prices vary with the season. Charges peak from July through August and during Christmas and Easter seasons. If a city hosts a special festival, such as Seville with its April Fair, top prices will also be charged at that time. Significant savings are possible at other times of year. In general, a hotel will charge one-third of its high-season prices in off-season.

Climate

Spain's geography covers several different climates. The center, sealed from the sea by mountains north, south, and west, experiences weather similar to most western European countries: hot summers, cold winters (but rarely with snow), low rainfall, and low humidity. Significant precipitation falls on the Cordillera Mountains surrounding this center, however, where six feet of moistness produce deep winter snow and good skiing.

The north of Spain, especially the northwest—Galicia, Asturias, and Cantabria—makes up for the aridity of the center. The northwest, however, is warmer in winter and cooler in summer than the central plateau.

The most pleasant year-round temperatures in Spain are those of the eastern coast, from Catalonia to the Levant. Geographically a continuation of the French Riviera, it shares that climate, except for generally milder winters.

The southern coastline of Spain enjoys the warmest winters in mainland Europe. Almost no rain falls on the eastern half of this coast in summer, and not much during the rest of the year. Málaga boasts almost 200 days of utterly cloudless skies. Winter nights can be decidedly cool.

Tourist Season

Crowds are a consideration, too, in deciding when to visit. Spain doubles its population each summer, filling beaches, resort hotels, and restaurants. In particular, August is the time when the Spanish themselves go on holiday, adding their numbers to beach crowds and leaving behind restaurants closed for vacation. Prices rise to accommodate the crowds. Overall, spring would be the ideal season to cover Spain's terrain, and early summer months are preferable to crowded August.

Holidays and Special Events

Businesses and attractions may be closed during holidays, but these times offer the best opportunities to view and enjoy the local color.
All offices are closed on national holidays. When occurring near a weekend, the holiday becomes a four-day weekend.

1 January: Año Nuevo (New Year).
6 January: Epifanía del Señor (Epiphany).
19 March: San Jaime (St. James's Day).
29 March: Jueves Santo (Maundy Thursday).
28 March: Viernes Santo (Good Friday).
30 March: Día de Pascua (Easter Sunday).
1 May: Fiesta del Trabajo (Labor Day).
15 August: Asunción de la Virgen (Assumption Day).
12 October: Día Nacional de España (Hispanic Day).
1 November: Todos los Santos (All Saints' Day).
6 December: Constitución Española (Constitution Day).
8 December: Inmaculada Concepción (Immaculate Conception).
25 December: Natividad del Señor (Christmas).

Various regions and towns celebrate their own festivals during the year. Consult the National Tourist Office of Spain for exact dates.

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Hotels in Spain are numerous and high in quality. Nowhere in the world will you find more truly grand accommodations, or more delightful inns at modest rates. Service is excellent and cleanliness exemplary, with very rare exceptions. In almost every case, you receive more for your hotel dollar than at home.

Virtually every public accommodation in Spain is listed in the annual Guía de Hoteles, published by the Secretaria General de Turismo and available in the U.S. at the National Tourist Office of Spain, 665 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10022 (Tel. 212-759-8822, Fax 212-980-1053), as well as at some travel agencies. The Secretaria General de Turismo rates establishments with a system of stars based on measurable features such as the percentage of rooms with private baths, air-conditioning, etc., though not for such immeasurable qualities as comfort, efficiency, and friendly service. These ratings provide only a rough guide to price and quality. A white and blue metal plaque outside the establishment will indicate its official rating and type—"H" a hotel, "HR" a residencia, and "Hs" a hostal.

Paradors are an extraordinary Spanish institution—hotels that can enrich any trip. Faced with an oversupply of historical buildings whose owners could not afford their upkeep, the government began buying and remodeling grand edifices into hotels. The program proved immensely successful; it preserved irreplaceable structures while offering visitors a chance to eat and sleep in the palaces, castles, and convents which ordinarily they could only view. Eighty-six paradors now dot the country, about half of which are historical monuments with many of the rest showcasing modern architects. Reservations should be made as early as possible—at least five months in advance for smaller ones in high seasons.

If you're looking for a hotel room in person, remember that Europeans frequently ask to see their room before they register, so hotels expect inspections. Simple English will generally be understood. If not, a single room is una habitación individual, a double una habitación doble. Con baño means with bath. Few double rooms contain a large bed for two (cama de matrimonio), though you could ask. A single room should be no more than 80 percent of the price of a double. The quoted price for a room in Spain includes taxes and usually, though not always, a surcharge for service.

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With regard to tipping in hotels, the custom is to return some bills from your change for the staff. It is gracious to leave the equivalent of 100 pesetas per night in the room for the housekeeper, while the concierge, doorkeeper, and porter should be tipped for specific services, say the equivalent of 100 pesetas per bag carried, or a like amount for hailing a cab.

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