GREEK ISLANDS: THE IONIAN


These islands are in the Ionian Sea on the Italian side of Greece, with the exception of Kythira which is south of the eastern Peloponessos. Because they were occupied by the Venetians and the Italians instead of the Turks, the islands have a different architecture and character than the islands in the Aegean. They are connected by ferry to the towns of Patras in the Peloponessos, and Corfu and Cefalonia are connected by ferries from Italy. You can drive to Lefkada and there is a ferry from Killini on the Peloponessos to Cefalonia and Zakynthos. Corfu, Kefalonia, Zakynthos and Kythira have airports. 

Corfu

Corfu is featured in the schedule of most European package holiday companies catering for the sort of holidaymaker who is looking for a "home away from home" with guaranteed sun, cheap booze and lots of nightlife thrown in for good measure. It has, therefore, managed to earn itself a reputation for being full of karaoke bars, lager louts and "restaurants" serving fish & chips and Sunday roast beef. However, as Greek islands go, Corfu is one of the bigger ones - 33 miles long and 15 miles across at the widest point - and provided you stay away from the tourist hotspots like Kavos, Benitses, Gouvia and Ipsos, it's easy to find parts of the island which are virtually untouched by the tackier side of tourism. Head north out of Corfu town and within about half an hour's drive along the east coast you're at the foot of Mount Pantokrator, whose steep slopes and winding roads have made it unviable as a mass market development area and the coastline here is dotted with tiny turquoise coves and inlets. This part of the island is the closest Corfu comes to Albania - at one point you feel you could almost swim across - and it's almost impossible not to be touched by an eerie kind of sensation when you realize just how close you are to what was so recently an Eastern bloc country. It's also along this stretch of coastline that Lawrence Durrell lived while he was writing Prospero's Cell. The house is still there at Kalami but it's now been turned into a tavern. Over on the western coast is a beach-lover's paradise with such long sandy stretches of beach that even in the height of the summer season it's still possible to find a quiet spot. Look for Halikounas, Ermones and Pelekas, but if you want to avoid the crowds, stay away from Paleokastritsa, where the "film set" scenery inevitably attracts a regular influx of day trippers. Inland is where you can discover a more untouched Corfu of fertile valleys, citrus and olive groves, where the most common form of transport for the local farmers is still a donkey. For those seeking tranquility and a place to commune with nature, there's even a wetland nature reserve (Lake Korisson) hidden away behind the south west coast - perfect for twitches in the migratory season, or for lovers at anytime! Recommended background reading: "My Family and Other Animals" by Gerald Durrell for a glimpse of how Corfu was 50 years ago or for maps, walks, drives and regularly updated info - "Landscapes of Corfu" published by Sunflower. (Review by Elaine Key) There are many boats too and from Italy, Patras, Igoumounitsa and the other islands in the chain. There is also an international airport.

PROPERTY AVAILABLE -- Corfu, Greece -- Enchanting Greek Island

Beachfront suite includes two bedrooms with one queen and two twin beds, bath, TV, and kitchenette. Maximum of four occupancy. This property is located in a village called Arillas. The beach was awarded a blue flag meaning it is one of the cleanest beaches in Greece. You will be amazed by the breathtaking sunset. The suite is walking distance to nightlife, shopping, and dining. Water sports are available. Arillas is unique because even  though it accommodates tourists it is still small enough to enjoy the Greek culture. Everyone knows everyone. The property is minutes away from three other villages with more spectacular beaches -- St. George, St. Stefano and Sidari. Click here to book this property!

Ithaki

One cannot list the Greek islands without mentioning the island of Odysseus. The island is mountainous and rocky but lots of trees and olive groves, as do the other Ionian islands. Several archeological sites associated with Homer's story along with some beautiful fishing villages and beaches make this an interesting island to visit either from Patras or Kefalonia. Ithaka is an ideal place for walking full of trails and views. Generally the island is small and quiet and June is really wonderful for family vacations. Vathy (the capital of the island and the place where Odyssey Apartments is located) brings together the northern part of the island (Perahori) which has the best hiking and the southern part has the best beaches (quiet isolated coves, or bigger beaches). The best way to explore the beaches is by boat of-course. You can take your car and come to Ithaka through Patras, where there is a ferry to Ithaca daily. The boat departs from Patras at 12:30. 

Kythira 

A beautiful island popular with the wealthy Athenians. It is south of the Peleponisos and the ferry runs from Neapolis, Githion and Kasteli in Crete. It is actually considered one of the Ionian islands. Nice beaches, beautiful towns. Accommodations are scarce so book before you go. if you are looking for a beautiful off the beaten path island this may be it. Ferry connections are daily or almost daily to the towns of Githion and Neapolis in the Peloponessos. In the summer there is a hydrofoil to Pireaus four times a week. There is also an airport. 

Kefallonia

Lots of Italians. Large green island with pine forests and many species of wildflowers and herbs. Nesting area for the Loggerhead turtles but unlike the neighboring island of Zakynthos where they are endangered, the turtles here are doing fine. Locals known for being clever. Nice beaches. Village of Fiscardo was one of the most beautiful in Greece, but that was twenty years ago. This is where the book Corelli's Mandolin takes place. Required reading. Captivating island that is popular with everyone but Americans. But this book may change that. The Mellisani Cave is an underground seawater lake featured in most guidebooks because of the amazing color of the sea. Daily ferry from Sami to and from Italy in the summer via Igoumounitsa and Corfu. Other connections to Lafkada, Ithaki, Zakynthos and Kilini in the Peloponessos. There is also an airport.

Lefkada

An island you can drive to in the Ionian chain, it is actually connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus that was separated by a canal. It is surrounded by several smaller islands which can be visited, with beautiful pebble and sandy beaches, great restaurants and very friendly people who still dress in traditional attire. Nydri is Lefkadas primary tourist village but it has retained a certain charm. Anyway you have to go there to visit the smaller islands, one of which is the famous Skorpios of Aristotle Onassis and Jackie fame. 

Paxi or Paxos

The east coast has small pebble beaches while the west coast has dramatic cliffs and caves accessible only by boat. Has not been infected by mass tourism the way it's neighbor Corfu has, though there are day trips from the larger island. Not many places to stay so if you are coming high season book in advance. There are 3 ferries a week from Brindisi during the summer months and a daily ferry from Corfu. 

Zakynthos

Favorite Ionian Island of most expatriates and philhellenes. Shipwreck beach is one of the most famous Greece tourist photos and one of the most amazing beaches. Just because it is the last island on the list does not mean it is the last place you would want to go. This is a wonderful island to visit. Much more beautiful than Kefalonia with nicer beaches and hotels but like Kefalonia it is nearly impossible to find a room here during the tourist season and if you do find one you may find out it has been cancelled three days before you arrive due to overbooking and the endless stream of flights coming in from Europe leaving one group and picking up another to take home. The World Wildlife is trying to protect the loggerhead sea turtles that lay their eggs on the beaches there but with tourism on the rise it does not look good for the turtles.

The Sporades | Saronic Gulf Islands | Northeast Aegean Islands | Ionian Islands
Dodecanese Islands | Big Islands | The Cyclades

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